TUCKED INTO THE ROLLING HILLS OF BLUEGRASS COUNTRY, DERBY CITY IS RENOWNED for its thundering thoroughbreds and barrel-aged bourbon. But Louisville’s legacy is on the move. This mid-Southern city is experiencing a restaurant renaissance, surging past cities twice its size. Chefs all over Louisville (pronounced Lou-uh-vuhl by locals) are rewriting their city’s story, plate by plate. Here are a few favorites you must sample on your next visit.